Laila Peak Expedition Overview
The Laila Peak Expedition offers a thrilling opportunity for climbing enthusiasts to conquer one of the most stunning 6000m peaks in the heart of the Karakoram Range of Gilgit-Baltistan. Often referred to as the “Queen of Karakoram,” Laila Peak is renowned worldwide for its distinctive, needle-like shape and breathtaking beauty. Nestled between Dalsangpa and Khuspang camps in the Hushe Valley, this peak rises majestically to an altitude of 6096 meters, making it a prime destination for mountaineers and adventure seekers alike. Its unique shape also attracts skiers and nature lovers who appreciate both challenge and scenery.
We offer both solo and group expeditions to Laila Peak throughout the year. Climbers can choose from full-board services or base camp packages, depending on their preference. The expedition typically begins in Islamabad, followed by a flight to Skardu, the gateway to the Karakoram. After a few days in Skardu for preparation, participants drive to the Hushe Valley and trek to the Laila Peak Base Camp, a journey that takes approximately two days. Experienced mountaineers can summit Laila Peak in less than a week, with most expeditions approaching via the West Face from the Gondogoro Glacier.
Climbing and Skiing History
Laila Peak has a fascinating climbing history. The first recorded legal ascent was achieved by a British team, including Simon Yates, Sean Smith, and Mark Miller, in 1987 via the West Face. In the early 1990s, German and Swiss teams also summited, though these ascents were not officially recognized. A notable Italian expedition in 1997, led by Fabio Iacchini, Paolo Cavagnetto, Camillo Della Vedova, Giovanni Ongaro, and Guido Ruggeri, reinforced Laila Peak’s reputation among elite climbers.
The mountain gained global attention in 2005 when Fredrik Ericsson and Jorgen Aamot attempted a ski descent, reaching 150 meters below the summit. Winter ascents were later accomplished by Alex Txikon and Jose Fernandez on February 18, 2013. Most recently, on May 10, 2021, Polish skier Andrzej Bargiel and his team successfully skied down the 6,096m peak, further highlighting Laila Peak as a premier destination for high-altitude skiing and mountaineering.
Altitude of Laila Peak
The exact height of Laila Peak has been debated. Some sources list it as 6200 meters, while others suggest 6614 meters. Italian climbers report 6200m, whereas the first British ascenders documented 6614m. A Japanese mountaineering map by Tsuneo Miyamori (2003) lists the peak at 6096 meters, a measurement confirmed by recent expeditions and widely accepted today.
Climbing Information
The West Face of Laila Peak presents a steep challenge with slopes of 45–50 degrees over 1500 vertical meters. This mixed ice and rock climbing route attracts the majority of climbers. The lower slopes are covered with soft snow, while the upper sections have a thin ice layer. From the summit, climbers are rewarded with panoramic views of major Karakoram peaks, including K2, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrum group. For acclimatization, climbers may consider the nearby Gondogoro Peak (5650m).
Expedition Cost
We organize Laila Peak Expeditions year-round. Climbers can join our fixed departures at a cost of $3,000 or request a customized expedition tailored to their schedule and requirements. Our professional team ensures a safe, organized, and unforgettable climbing experience for adventurers from around the world.
